One box, no tanks, no cylinder

Combi boiler installationin Milton Keynes

A combi is the right boiler for a lot of MK homes and the wrong one for some. Here is how to tell which yours is, what the job involves, and what it typically costs.

  • Mains pressure and flow checked first
  • Swap or full conversion
  • Gas Safe registered installers only

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What a combi is, and who it actually suits

A combi heats your radiators and makes hot water on demand from one unit. No cylinder, no tanks in the loft.

Turn a hot tap and the boiler fires, heating the water as it passes through. Nothing is stored, so there is no airing cupboard full of cylinder and no pair of tanks sitting in the roof. You get the space back and there is nothing waiting to overflow.

That fits a lot of Milton Keynes housing stock. A two or three bedroom estate house, one bathroom, one or two people in most of the time, and a decent cold main coming in. If that describes your home, a combi is normally the simplest boiler to own and the cheapest to fit.

It is the wrong answer for some houses, and a decent engineer will tell you so rather than sell you one anyway. Because a combi makes hot water as it flows, it really only does one thing at a time. Run two showers together, or fill a bath while someone washes up, and both go weak. If your household uses two bathrooms at once on a normal weekday morning, a system boiler with a cylinder will serve you better.

The other thing that rules a combi out is the water coming into the house. Poor mains pressure or a thin trickle of flow, often down to a long or narrow supply pipe, and a combi will let you down from day one. A higher output will not rescue it. This is why the installer tests before recommending anything.

Two different jobs

Swap or conversion

Both get called combi installation. They are not the same piece of work and they do not cost the same money.

Combi for combi swap

The straightforward one. The old unit comes off the wall, the new one goes up in its place, and sound existing pipework is reused. The flue usually goes back through the same hole. Most swaps are done and running inside a day.

Converting from a system or regular boiler

A much bigger job. The hot water cylinder comes out, the feed and expansion tanks in the loft come out with it, and the pipework that served them is capped or reworked. A gas supply pipe upgrade is common, because a combi pulls more gas at full output than the boiler you are replacing, and the run from your meter was sized for something else.

Before anyone talks you into a conversion, ask for the incoming mains pressure and flow rate to be tested. It takes a few minutes and it decides the whole thing. If the figures are not there, the honest recommendation is to keep a cylinder and fit a system boiler instead. There is more on what pushes a quote up or down on our new boiler cost page.

Fitting day

What happens, step by step

This is the running order when the independent installer we pass you to turns up on the morning.

  1. Dust sheets down, gas and water isolated, and the old system drained.
  2. Old boiler off the wall and out. On a conversion, the cylinder and loft tanks come out too.
  3. Gas, water and condensate pipework altered to suit the new unit, including any gas supply upgrade.
  4. New boiler hung, flue fitted and sealed, condensate routed to a drain and insulated if it runs outside.
  5. System flushed, inhibitor added and a magnetic filter fitted so the new heat exchanger is not running on sludge.
  6. Controls fitted and paired, then the boiler fired up and commissioned to the manufacturer's instructions.
  7. Benchmark checklist completed, the work notified through Gas Safe, and your warranty registered.
  8. A proper handover: how the controls work, where the filling loop is, and what to do if the pressure drops.

A like for like swap normally finishes the same day. Allow a second day for a conversion, since there is a good deal more to strip out and rework before anything new goes on the wall.

Sizing

Bigger is not better

Output is measured in kilowatts. Picking the biggest one on the price list is a mistake, not an upgrade.

A combi's output has to be matched to two separate things: how much hot water you want arriving at the tap, and how much heat your radiators need to warm the house on a cold morning. Those two numbers rarely point at the same boiler, which is why sizing is a judgement rather than a chart.

Oversize it and the boiler short cycles, firing and stopping all day. That is harder on the appliance and does nothing good for your running costs. Undersize it and the showers are disappointing and the house never quite gets warm.

The engineer works it out from what is in front of them: the number and size of your radiators, how well the house holds heat, how many bathrooms are in regular use, and what your cold main can actually deliver. That is a survey job. Be wary of anyone who names an output over the phone without asking a single question about your radiators.

Budget

Guide prices for combi work

Typical guide prices, your quote may differ. The written figure after a survey is the one that counts.

Typical guide prices for combi boiler work in Milton Keynes. Your quote may differ.
JobGuide priceWhat it covers
Combi swap£1,900 to £3,200Like for like, boiler stays where it is
Conversion to combi£3,000 to £4,800Tanks and cylinder removed, pipework reworked

The gap between the two rows is the stripping out and the reworking, not the boiler. Where your job lands inside either range depends on the model you pick, the flue run, and whether the gas supply needs upgrading. The full breakdown sits on thenew boiler cost page, and if you are weighing up whether to replace at all, start with boiler replacement.

We are a referral service, not an installer. The price you pay is agreed between you and the independent Gas Safe registered installer who surveys your home.

Combi questions

Combi boilers, answered straight

Plain answers to what people in Milton Keynes ask before they replace a boiler.

Can I have a combi if my house has two bathrooms?

You can, but think hard about it first. A combi heats water as it flows through, so it does one job at a time well. If two showers regularly run at once in your house, a system boiler with a hot water cylinder copes better. If the second bathroom is a spare that gets used twice a year, a combi is usually fine. The engineer will give you a straight answer once they have seen the house.

How do I know if my water mains are good enough for a combi?

A combi can only deliver what the incoming cold main brings into the house, so the installer tests the pressure and the flow rate before recommending one. It takes a few minutes at the kitchen tap. A long or narrow supply pipe, or old corroded pipework inside the house, can hold the flow back. If the figures are poor, a bigger boiler will not rescue it and you are better off keeping a cylinder.

Do I need a bigger gas pipe for a combi?

Often, yes, especially on a conversion. A combi draws more gas when it is running flat out than the boiler it replaces, and the pipe from your meter may have been sized years ago for a smaller appliance. The engineer checks the size and the length of the run and upgrades it if the boiler would be starved. It is a normal part of the job, not an add-on invented at the last minute.

What happens to the cylinder and the loft tanks on a conversion?

They come out and the installer takes them away. The pipework that fed them is capped off or reworked, and the airing cupboard becomes ordinary storage again. Ask for removal and disposal to be written into the quote so there is no argument about it later.

Does a combi need a filter and a flush?

Yes on both counts, and any quote worth having includes them. Old radiator water carries sludge, and pushing that through a brand new heat exchanger is the quickest way to ruin it. Expect a system flush, inhibitor added, and a magnetic filter fitted on the return. Manufacturers can decline warranty claims where the system was not cleaned properly.

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